Tirana
The capital has reinvented itself in twenty years — Skanderbeg Square is now Europe's largest pedestrianised plaza, the Grand Park around the artificial lake has become the city's lungs, and the new Blloku district is the Western Balkans' most lively café-and-cocktail scene. Most central boutique hotels run on green-certified hydropower from the Drin cascade. Use Tirana as the launch pad for the Riviera and the UNESCO towns.
Highlights: Skanderbeg Square & Et'hem Bey Mosque · Blloku café district · Grand Park & artificial lake · Bunk'Art Cold War museum